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Friday, April 29, 2011

Beef Carpaccio a la Harry's Bar

It took a lot of convincing to get me to try carpaccio, as well as ceviche and sushi -- and today they are all favorites. I'm still a little skittish about raw meat, though, even if it is marinated. I always go to a very good butcher I trust -- Kuby's is my first choice -- and I prepare the dish as soon as possible. Raw food enthusiasts extol the health benefits of uncooked food, but to me it just tastes good!

The sauce below is an adaptation of the one served with the carpaccio at Harry's Bar in Venice, where the dish originated in the 1950s. This sauce is scrumptious -- in my opinion, worth every calorie. But if the sauce seems like too much, the carpaccio is also good with just a squeeze of lemon, or with a balsamic vinaigrette.
You can also eliminate the marinade. The Harry's Bar recipe does not marinate the beef -- I got that from a different recipe. Somehow it seems less raw if it's been marinated.

Carpaccio

1 1/2 pounds fat-free filet of beef (ask the butcher to slice paper thin)

Marinade:

1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup wine vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup cognac
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 large onion, peeled and very finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and very finely chopped

Sauce:

2 eggs
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup extra virgin oil
1 cup vegetable oil
2 dashes Tabasco, or to taste
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
salt & pepper to taste

Garnish:

1 tablespoon capers
thinly sliced lemons
chopped parsley

Combine eggs, mustard, lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and a dash of Tabasco in a blender. Cover and pulse to mix. Turn the blender to medium and let it run while drizzling in the olive oil and then the vegetable oil. Continue to blend until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add Worcestershire and blend 10 more seconds. Taste and add salt if needed.

If you are slicing the beef yourself, partially freeze it and slice with a very sharp knife or preferably an electric knife.
Place each slice of beef between sheets of  waxed paper and pound until almost transparent.
Marinate beef for 4 to 6 hours, turning several times.

To serve, arrange slices of beef in a semi-circle and drizzle with sauce. Squeeze a little lemon juice over the top and sprinkle with parsley. Garnish with capers and freshly ground black pepper. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Neiman-Marcus Chocolate Chip Cookies

This recipe has been the subject of a long-lasting urban legend. Supposedly a woman was so taken with the chocolate chip cookie at the Neiman-Marcus Zodiac Room that she begged the waiter for the recipe. He told her that there would be a charge of "two-fifty." "Fine," she said. But when she received her bill she was shocked to see the charge was $250, not $2.50. In revenge she mailed the recipe to everyone she knew.

Neiman-Marcus has always denied the story, and to prove it they have the recipe posted on their web site. I've made these several times and they are really good. The espresso powder supposedly intensifies the flavor of the chocolate. I know everyone is watching calories, but for that very reason sometimes it's really special to have a yummy and totally unnecessary sweet treat!

Neiman-Marcus Chocolate Chip Cookies

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup light brown sugar
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 egg
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
1 1/2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 300.

Cream the butter with the sugars using an electric mixer on medium speed until fluffy (about 30 seconds). Beat in the egg and vanilla extract for another 30 seconds.
In a mixing bowl, sift together dry ingredients and beat into butter mixture at low speed for about 15 seconds.
Stir in espresso powder and chocolate chips.
Using a 1-ounce scoop or a 2-tablespoon measure, drop the cookie dough onto greased cookie sheet about three inches apart. Gently press down on the dough with the back of a spoon to spread out into a 2-inch circle.
Bake for about 20 minutes, or until nicely browned around the edges. Bake a little longer for a crispier cookie.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Gyros with Tzatziki Sauce

The final Easter dinner recycling recipe! The cheat here is that I already have the gyro meat -- the lamb I picked up at a Middle Eastern restaurant for Easter was the meat they use for their gyros. It was delicious, but I have no idea how to reproduce it. I would suggest picking up the meat from a restaurant, as the process they use cannot be duplicated at home. I also got some pita bread from them, so I figured all I need for gyros is a tomato and tzatziki sauce.

Tzatziki Sauce

2 8-ounce containers plain yogurt (or low-fat)
2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and diced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 lemon, juiced
salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill
3 cloves garlic, peeled

Drain the yogurt in cheesecloth over a bowl in the refrigerator for several hours. When ready to use give the cheesecloth a final squeeze to remove more liquid.

Salt and drain the cucumbers on paper towel for about an hour. When ready to use wipe off any remaining moisture.

In a food processor or blender combine yogurt, cucumber, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, dill, and garlic. Process until well combined. Transfer to a separate dish, cover, and refrigerate for at least one hour.

Gyros

Gyro meat
Pita bread
Tomato, sliced lengthwise
Tzaziki sauce

In a large skillet, heat enough olive oil to coat the surface of the pan. Add gyro meat and allow to warm,, tossing every few moments to heat evenly.

Warm the pita bread in the microwave, then slice in half. Stuff each half with gyro meat, tomato slices, and tzatziki sauce.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Easter Continues: Leftovers

I did survive! And so did quite a bit of food. Tonight I've created a nice main dish salad with the remains:

1 leaf Romaine or Red Leaf Lettuce
tomato slice
marinated asparagus
ham salad
(vinagrette)
(toasted pita bread)

Assemble lettuce, tomato, asparagus, then a mound of ham salad and top with vinaigrette if desired.  Toasted pita on the side.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Easter Stuffed Eggs

Stuffed (or "deviled") eggs are one of the great culinary treats: the richness of the eggs blended with a vast variety of ingredients...herbs, fish, and pickled anything. The only rule is that any addition must be light or subtle enough to allow the egg to shine through. To me, "stuffed" eggs are those with the most subtle flavors - like salmon or curry - while "deviled" eggs are more spicy - stuffed with ham, pickles, even jalapenos, for instance. For Easter this year, I'm doing eggs with smoked salmon, curry, and pickle relish.

Place the eggs in a pot with plenty of water.Bring to a boil. Remove the pot from heat and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a cold water bath -- a bowl of water with a lot of ice. When the eggs are done, scoop them out of the pot with a slotted spoon and place in the ice water. Cool them for at least 15 minutes (longer won't hurt). The purpose of the ice bath is to prevent the unpleasant green or gray ring around the yolk that can sometimes form.

After the eggs have cooled completely, remove the shells. Halve lengthwise and remove the yolks.
At this point, you can (a) mash the yolks and other ingredients with a fork (b) puree the yolks and other ingredients in a blender or food processor, or (c) put yolks and other ingredients through a sieve. This depends partly on what your other ingredients are and what you want from your stuffed eggs. For instance, if you are making what I consider the classic "deviled" eggs -- adding mayonnaise, a dab of French's mustard, and pickle relish -- you would mash with a fork to preserve the integrity of the pickle relish. If you are stuffing with salmon, you might want to blend or sieve some of the salmon into the yolk and then add a strip of salmon on top. Putting it through the sieve would preserve a little more of the distinct flavor and texture of the salmon. Blending would give you a salmon-flavored yolk.

For a really nice presentation, put the stuffing into a piping bag and swirl into the halved whites. Or just scoop into the whites with a spoon. A sprinkling of paprika or cayenne is traditional and gives a nice color contrast and flavor boost. Another topping of some kind is nice, too. Here is what I have planned: fresh dill atop the smoked salmon, a dab of chutney atop the curry, a strip of pimiento atop the pickle relish.

Make-Your-Own "Peeps"

Sorry, guys, but I'm busy getting ready for Easter & don't have time to post the instructions for this.  But you can find the link on my FB page, or go to Martha Stewart's web page and enter a search for "homemade Easter treats"

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Chilled Carrot Soup with Garden Herbs

This is the soup we decided to have for our backyard (if Mother Nature co-operates) drop-by Easter get-together. My mother thought the carrots seemed Easter-y, and I like this version because it doesn't have cream as so many carrot soups do. We'll just have the soup in a large pitcher surrounded with plastic cups, and the chives on a dish for people to add as they wish.

Recipes will follow in the next few days for the rest of our Easter menu: various stuffed eggs, finger sandwiches, and fruit tarts.

Chilled Carrot Soup with Garden Herbs

6 tablespoons olive oil
5 large carrots, thinly sliced
2 1/2 cups thinly sliced onions
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 cups chicken broth
1/4 cup orange juice
fresh chives, chopped

Heat olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add carrots and onions and saute for about 4 minutes. Add thyme, brown sugar, and nutmeg. Saute until vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. Add chicken broth. Cover pan and simmer until carrots are very soft -- about 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to a food processor or blender. Add 1/4 cup of cooking liquid. Puree until smooth. Return puree to pan. Stir in orange juice. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Chill. Sprinkle with chives before serving.
This can be made the day before and kept refrigerated.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Chicken Chalupas Compuestas or Taco Salad

There used to be a wonderful Mexican restaurant in Dallas called Spanish Village. It had a very charming atmosphere, and I thought it was the height of sophistication when I was 20-something. I always ordered one chicken chalupa. This recipe is the closest I've come to recreating that wonderful chalupa. Of course, this is a more structured version of a taco salad (in fact, "compuesta" means "composed" in Spanish). You could use the same ingredients (with a taco shell or with crumbled tostados) in the same order for a taco salad.

Chicken Chalupa Compuestra

corn or flour tortilla, fried until crisp in vegetable oil and then drained
hot refried beans or mashed pinto beans
sour cream
shredded or chopped chicken, seasoned with taco or fajita seasoning
grated Monterrey Jack cheese or chile con queso
salsa or enchilada sauce
chopped onion
chopped tomato
shredded lettuce
(guacamole)
(sliced avocado)

Assemble in order shown. I think Spanish Village used queso and guacamole, but now that seems like too much. If you're using queso, use sliced avocado. If you're using shredded cheese, use guacamole. You can also leave out the sour cream for a more simple chalupa.

You can do this with taco seasoned ground beef, too. But to me the chicken is classic.

Low Fat, Low Calorie Creamy Three Pepper Sauce for Fish or Chicken

This is a surprisingly rich sauce, but only 183 calories per serving with 5 grams of fat. The secret is evaporated low-fat milk. Delicious and full of robust flavor, it is also quick and simple to prepare. The peppers and mushrooms in the sauce provide a vegetable, so you really only need some rice, pasta, or a salad for a complete meal.

I first made this years ago when I was on a low-fat diet. My friend Jo Carol and I grilled tuna steaks on my brand new Weber grill -- lighting the grill was the most difficult part of the preparation! It would be good on any type of mild fish or chicken.

Creamy Three Pepper Sauce

1 cup julienned red, green, and yellow peppers
1 cup sliced mushrooms
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1//4 cup evaporated low-fat milk
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon slivered fresh basil

In a medium skillet, sautee peppers, mushrooms, onions, and garlic in oil over medium heat about 6 minutes or until excess moisture has evaporated.
Stir in flour. Cook, stirring constantly, for one minute. Gradually add milk, water, wine, and salt. Heat, stirring constantly, until mixture comes to a boil and thickens. Stir in basil.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Ham Cakes and Eggs with Tomato and Honey Mustard Sauce

This is a wonderful and different brunch dish. It's really a variation on baked or shirred eggs -- eggs baked in ramekins or muffin tins to which may be added herbs, crumbled bacon, or tomato sauce, etc. In this version, the ham cakes form a cup for the eggs for a beautiful presentation and a more substantial amount of ham than you would have in a baked egg. And with the addition of tomato and the honey mustard sauce, it is a complete and very satisfying meal.

Ham Cakes and Eggs

1 cup cooked ground ham
5 eggs
1 tablespoon water
1/8 teaspoon paprika
4 pieces of toast, cut into rounds
4 slices Roma tomatoes
chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 325.

Combine the ham, one egg, water, and paprika and press into four greased muffin tins, leaving a large hollow in each. Drop one egg into each hollow. Bake until the eggs are firm (they should be the consistency of poached eggs)-- about 8 to 10 minutes.

Place a slice of tomato on each toast round and top with ham cakes. Drizzle with honey mustard sauce and sprinkle with parsley.

Honey Mustard Sauce

5 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Gazpacho with Quesadillas

There are innumerable variations of both gazpacho and quesadillas. The following are my favorites, but use your imagination and suit your own tastes!

This gazpacho recipe has a lot of flavor without being overly spicy, and I like the combination of blended and chopped ingredients -- so often gazpacho is either completely pureed or overly chunky. I served this once to a gourmet friend of my parents, and he looked quite surprised after his first sip. "Where did you get this gazpacho?" he asked. I don't think he really believed I had made it myself! The recipe comes from the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts Gallery Buffet Soup Cookbook.

Gazpacho

Mix in blender until smooth:

1 10-ounce can Snap-E-Tom
1 medium cucumber, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 medium tomato, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup salad oil

Add by hand (do not use blender):

2 10-ounce cans Snap-E-Tom
1 small onion, finely chopped
1/2 medium tomato, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 medium cucumber, peeled and finely chopped

Chill for at least one hour.

You can add toasted croutons, diced avocado, chopped parsley or cilantro, or sliced lemon to each serving if you like. I like it "straight."

Chicken, Mushroom, and Onion Quesadillas

Quesadillas are really a Mexican version of the grilled cheese sandwich. So any quesadilla includes a tortilla and cheese. Beyond that, the sky's the limit! In the U.S., they are usually made with flour tortillas, but I'm told that in Mexico corn tortillas are often used. They can be made with a single tortilla, adding the filling to one half and then folding the other half over like a turnover. This is then served whole. Or you can use two tortillas, placing the filling on one and then topping with the other. This is then sliced into wedges. This recipe is for the second version, which is the style I am more accustomed to. You can easily transform it into the turnover style if you like.

Any type of melting cheese is good for quesadillas. I like either Monterrey Jack or queso fresco. Other fillings could include pico de gallo, shredded or fajita beef, fajita chicken, green pepper, chile pepper...let your imagination run wild -- or use whatever you have left over in the refrigerator! This is one of my favorite combinations.

If you would like to season the chicken, see instructions in the chicken enchilada recipe.

butter or cooking oil
4 flour tortillas
1 cup grated or crumbled cheese
1 cup sliced mushrooms
1/2 onion sliced thinly
1 cup shredded chicken
(guacamole)

Sautee the mushrooms and onion until soft and golden. Set aside.

Place one tortilla on a lightly greased skillet. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup cheese, 1/2 cup chicken, and 1/2 of the onions and mushrooms. Spread evenly and top with a second tortilla. Brush the top of the second tortilla with a little oil or butter. Continue cooking until the cheese begins to melt and the bottom tortilla begins to turn golden. Flip the quesadilla over with a large spatula and cook on the other side until the cheese is completely melted and the tortilla golden brown. Repeat with the remaining two tortillas and ingredients. Slice quesadillas into wedges. Top with guacamole if desired.

Guacamole

I like a very simple guacamole: just avocado lightly mashed with a fork or potato masher, a little lime juice, a tiny bit of grated onion or onion juice, and sea salt or kosher salt. But, of course, you can add chopped tomato, garlic, cumin, chopped chiles, etc. To your own taste!

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Shrimp (or crab) Salad with Choice of Dressings: Louis, Remoulade, New Orleans

It's starting to get hot, and a seafood salad sounds really good! Louis sauce has always been one of my favorites (it's sort of healthy -- green pepper and shrimp), remoulade is classic. And I've been told that this recipe for New Orleans sauce is from Galatoire's, though it's been a long time since I've been there so I couldn't swear to it! If you want to tone down the fat content in the Louis or remoulade, add more lemon juice and just don't use much sauce.

Any of these dishes begins with the poached shrimp or crabmeat. These must be good quality and well cooked (not overcooked). The seafood is placed on a bed of shredded or chopped lettuce, then topped with the dressing. If you are splurging, a little grated hard-boiled egg, chopped capers, and/or chopped green olives are delicious additions. I like to sprinkle a little paprika or cayenne on the composed and sauced salad. Lemon wedges are nice. And, of course, a good French bread!

Louis Sauce

1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup cream
1/4 cup chili sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup chopped green pepper
1/4 cup chopped green onion
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Remoulade Sauce

1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon drained, finely chopped sweet or bread and butter pickle
1 tablespoon drained, finely chopped capers
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
1/2 teaspoon chervil
(1/2 teaspoon anchovy paste)

New Orleans Sauce

1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1 stalk finely chopped green onion
1 tablespoon chopped chives
6 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
5 tablespoons horseradish
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon paprika
3/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Rub a bowl with garlic, combine above ingredients, add shrimp and toss well. Marinade shrimp in sauce for up to 12 hours (you may include a clove of garlic for 2 hours). Serve topped with sauce or with sauce on the side.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Yakisoba Chicken

I've always loved Japanese food. Never been a big fan of Chinese, but when I was a little girl my grandmother used to take us to a Japanese restaurant called Sakura sometimes for special occasions and I thought the food was delicious. I love tempura and sushi, but don't feel confident about attempting them at home (well, ok, tempura is great & easy on the grill. but tricky on the stove).

This is a basic stir-fry. You could substitute shrimp, and/or add other vegetables like brocolli or scallions (just remember that the ingredients need to cook at the same time, so cut brocolli into small pieces, for instance, and leave scallions whole). Use chile oil or red pepper flakes instead of chile paste. Rinse the soba noodles first until water runs clear, to prevent them from getting sticky.

This recipe is for 6, so adjust amounts as needed.

Yakisoba Chicken

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 tablespoons chile paste
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 skinless boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 onion, sliced lengthwise into eighths
1/2 medium head cabbage, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
8 ounces soba noodles, cooked and drained

In a large skillet combine sesame oil, canola oil, and chile paste. Stir fry for 30 seconds. Add garlic and stir fry an additional 30 seconds. Add chicken and 1/4 cup of the soy sauce and stir fry until chicken is no longer pink. Remove mixture from pan, set aside and keep warm.
Combine onion, cabbage, and carrots. Stir fry until cabbage begins to wilt. Stir in remaining soy sauce, noodles, and chicken mixture. Mix to blend and serve!

Sunday, April 10, 2011

German Sausage, Onion, and Cucumber Salad

This is my attempt to recreate another favorite dish from the past. In 1970, my friends Edith Seay and Chris Rentzel and I went to summer school in Paris. One weekend the three of us went to Lucerne to meet another friend, Richard Newman, who was coming through with a tour group. When I ordered this salad at a restaurant there, I was shocked that there was no lettuce -- I was only  19 and it had never occurred to me that a salad would not be mainly lettuce! It was delicious, though, and I wish I could remember the name of the sausage and what herbs they used in the dressing. I think maybe the sausage was knockwurst -- it was similar to bologna but better. I also have a strong feeling that they used chopped fennel leaves rather than dill. My grocery deli has a fairly decent bologna and I have some fresh dill, so that's what I'm using. There may also have been julienned strips of Swiss cheese.
This is filling enough for a light supper, with buttered rye bread. As I recall, they served it with the sausage in one layer on a plate, then cucumber, then onion, then cheese  -- spread out sort of like an antipasto.

German Sausage, Onion, and Cucumber Salad

1/2 pound deli bologna (or any sausage soft enough to absorb), sliced medium-thin and cut into pieces about
     1 - 1 1/2 inches square
1 onion, sliced very thin, separated into rings and cut in half
1 cucumber, peeled and sliced very thin
(Swiss cheese, cut into thin strips)

Dressing: Equal parts olive oil and lemon juice (or to taste), salt, white pepper, chopped fresh dill or fennel leaves, and a pinch of sugar

Sprinkle cucumber slices lightly with salt and allow to drain on paper towels for 1 - 2 hours. Drain onion slices also. Wash off the salt from cucumber and drain again. In a bowl, combine cucumber, onion, sausage, and cheese (if desired). Add dressing and toss well.  Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least one hour. Serve as described above, including only enough dresssing to moisten ingredients.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Seared Tuna with Orange Sauce and Rice Pilaf

This is a light, simple, and healthy meal. I love the wonderful fragrances in the kitchen while this is cooking. If you have leftover pilaf from tandoori chicken or another dish, you could use that pilaf instead topped with the tuna and sauce. You could use a different type of fish, and you could grill the fish instead of pan searing. The main thing here is the pilaf and sauce. It's really a one-dish meal, with the fish served on top of the pilaf and the sauce dirzzled over.

1 cup uncooked brown rice
2 cups water
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 onion, chopped
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided
1 cup frozen shelled edamame
4  (4-ounce) tuna steaks
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 shallot bulb, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup water
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1/4 teaspoon grated orange zest
1 tablespoon orange juice

Place rice and water in a pot and bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 45 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Stir in onion and cook until tender. Season with thyme and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Stir into cooked rice.
Place edamame in a separate pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 5 minutes or until tender. Mix into rice.
Heat remaining olive oil in a skillet. Rub tuna with remaining pepper and salt. Sautee tuna to desired doneness.

Orange Sauce: Place chopped shallots in skillet. Increase heat to high and pour in 3/4 cup water. Cook until reduced to about 1/2 cup, then stir in chives, orange zest, and orange juice. Arrange fish over rice and drizzle with sauce.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Tandoori Chicken, Sweet Saffron Pilaf, Spinach and Yogurt Salad

This is an attempt to recreate one of the most delicious meals I have ever eaten. My cousin Knox organized the preparation: he prepared and grilled the meat and assigned the side dishes to my cousin Mary Hobart and me. Even with three people working it was a labor-intensive meal -- but worth every bit of it! I'm not sure these are exactly the same dishes we had, but they are in the same vein. I would suggest preparing the spices and ghee, mixing the yogurt and spices for the spinach and yogurt salad, and marinating the chicken the day before cooking.

The recipes come from a wonderful cookbook, Classic Indian Cooking, by Julie Sahni. This was Knox's favorite cookbook, and I found it on Amazon. If you like Indian food, it is well worth buying. The author was raised in India and moved to New York as an adult -- so she has learned to adapt Indian cooking to the American kitchen and to use ingredients available here.

Instructions for making ghee and for roasting and grinding the spices follow the recipes. You can use a light vegetable oil instead of ghee, and store-bought ground spices -- the results will still be delicious, just not quite as fabulous! I know some people substitute yellow food coloring for saffron, but I think the saffron gives a wonderful flavor and richness.

The tandoor is a special clay pit type of oven, and no home-cooked chicken will completely re-create the flavor of the tandoor. But Julie Sahni says these techniques (oven roasting, oven broiling, outdoor grilling) all produce more than satisfactory results. Knox grilled the meat outdoors, but since I don't have a grill I chose oven roasting. I include instructions for all three. The recipes are for 6 servings. Reduce amounts as needed.

Tandoori chicken should be served immediately after cooking, because it becomes too dry when it is cold.

Tandoori Chicken (Tandoori Murghi)

3 small broiling chickens (2 - 2 1/2 pounds) or packaged quartered chicken
2 1/2 teaspoons unseasoned natural meat tenderizer (she says Adolph's is excellent)
1/3 cup lemon juice

Marinade:

2 large garlic cloves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger root
1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon red pepper
1 teaspoon tandoori coloring or 1 tablespoon paprika
1/3 cup plain yogurt
ghee or vegetable oil for basting

Remove the wings and necks, quarter the chickens, and remove the skin (use kitchen towels to grip the chicken and pull it off). Prick the chicken all over with a fork, and make diagonal slashes 1/2 inch deep 1 inch apart. Place the meat in a large bowl.
Add meat tenderizer and lemon juice to chicken, rubbing them into the slashes and all over for about 2 minutes. Cover and marinate for 1/2 hour.
Put marinade ingredients into blender or food processor and blend until reduced to a smooth sauce.
Pour marinade over chicken pieces and mix, turning and tossing, to coat all pieces well (if you are using tandoori coloring use a fork or pastry brush to avoid staining your fingers).
Cover and marinate for 4 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator, turning several times. Do not marinate longer than 2 days.
Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before cooking -- it should be at room temperature.

Oven Roasting:

Preheat oven to 500 - 550. Take chicken out of marinade and brush with ghee. Place pieces on a wire rack in a roasting pan and roast for 25-30 minutes, or until meat is cooked through. There is no need to baste with this method because the closed oven prevents drying.

Oven Broiling:

Preheat broiler. Place chicken pieces slashed side up on the rack and brush with ghee. Cook 2 or 3 inches from heat for 20 minutes. Turn and cook other side for 10 minutes or until cooked through. Brush often with ghee during cooking.

Outdoor Grilling:

Fire the coal about 1 1/2 hours before cooking, until a white ash forms over the surface of the coal. Place the grill at least 5 inches away from the heat and rub generously with oil. Place chicken pieces slashed side up on the grill and brush with ghee. Cook for 10 minutes, then turn, baste the other side, and cook for 10 minutes. Continue to cook, turning and basting every 10 minutes until chicken is done. Remember that because the chicken has marinated in a tenderizing solution it will cook more quickly.

Sweet Saffron Pilaf (Zarda)

2 cups basmati rice
1 teaspoon saffron threads
4 tablespoons ghee (or light vegetable oil)
10 whole cloves
8 green cardamom pods
1 stick cinnamon, 3 inches long
1/4 cup seedless raisins
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons Kosher salt

Wash the rice and place in a bowl. Add 4 cups cold water and soak for 1/2 hour. Drain the rice, reserving the water, and set aside.
Place saffron threads on a small plate and powder it using the back of a spoon or your fingers. Add 2 tablespoons of water and continue mashing until thoroughly dissolved. Set aside.
Heat ghee over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon. Fry until they are lightly browned and puffed -- about 1 minute. Add the rice and and fry until rice is thoroughly coated with ghee and begins to brown -- about 3 minutes -- stirring constantly to avoid burning.
Add reserved water, saffron water, raisins, sugar, and salt. Stir to keep rice from settling. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes or until most of the water is absorbed and the surface of the rice is filled with steamy holes. There is no need to stir, but if you must, use a fork to avoid crushing the grains of rice.
Cover the pan and reduce heat to the lowest possible setting. Let the rice steam for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes. The rice will remain warm for 20 minutes if left covered. Fluff with a fork before serving. The whole spices are not meant to be eaten, but will do no harm if they are.

Spinach and Yogurt Salad (Palak Raita)

1 cup cooked spinach (or cooked frozen chopped spinach)
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds
1 teaspoon ground roasted coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
(paprika)

Coarsely chop the spinach.
Put yogurt, sour cream, cumin, coriander, and black and red pepper in a bowl and mix thoroughly. (This can be done ahead and refrigerated).
When ready to serve, stir the salt and spinach into yogurt mixture. Sprinkle with cumin, coriander, and paprika if desired.

Usli Ghee (Indian Clarified Butter)

Indian clarified butter differs from the Western version by simmering the milk solids, which releases their liquid and creates a distinctive nutty flavor.

In a heavy 3-quart saucepan heat one pound of unsalted butter cut into small pieces over low heat -- it should not sizzle -- until completely melted (this should take from 5-15 minutes. Increase heat to medium. A thin layer of foam will form on top and the butter will begin to crackle as moisture is released from solids. Continue to simmer for about 10 minutes. It is not necessary to stir. The crackling will gradually stop and the foam will subside. At this point begin to stir constantly as foam forms again as the butter fat browns. As soon as the solids brown, turn off the heat and let the brown residue settle to the bottom. When the butter has cooled enough to handle, pour the clear liquid unto a jar making sure no residue gets in (you can strain through a double layer of cheesecloth to be sure). Let it cool completely, then cover the jar tightly.

Usli ghee will keep on the counter for 4-6 weeks if the room temperature is not more than 75, or in the refrigerator for 4 months, or in the freezer indefinitely.

Roasting and Grinding Spices (Masala Bhoonana aur Peesana)

Heat a heavy frying pan for 2 minutes over medium heat.  Add spices and roast over medium heat, shaking the pan and stirring to avoid burning. For the first minute or two nothing will happen -- the spices are losing their moisture. Then they will start to brown and release fragrant smoke. Roast until they turn dark brown, turning down the heat if they seem to be browning too fast. Coriander seeds should take about 6 minutes, cumin about 8 minutes. Remove immediately from the pan when brown and put in a bowl to cool completely.
Put the spices in a coffee grinder, a spice mill, or a blender and grind to a fine powder.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Poached Artichoke with Choice of Dressings: Clarified Butter, Lemon Butter, Mayonnaise, Garlic Mayonnaise, Hollandaise, Mousseline

I was lucky to have a mother who cooked artichokes well and often. It is still one of my favorite foods. You can serve them warm, at room temperature, or cold (they're better marinated if served cold), cored and stuffed, cored with the dressing in the center cavity, or with the dressing in a shallow dish on the side. You want a delicate yet flavorful dressing. Clarified butter with or without lemon is the classic traditional dressing, but homemade mayonnaise or garlic mayonnaise (aioli), hollandaise, or mousseline are all delicious. Cold marinated artichoke is good with a mustard vinaigrette. Rise No 1 restaurant serves a sauce they say is made like hollandaise but with olive oil instead of butter, and they add chopped hard-boiled egg and capers. I haven't tried to make it yet, but I intend to -- it is wonderful! The calorie-conscious can use a low-fat salad dressing or vinaigrette.

Poached Artichoke

You really do need to start with a fairly decent artichoke. No amount of careful cooking will overcome an old, dry artichoke. Choose one with tightly closed leaves.

Tear off the tough outer leaves, cut off about 1/4 inch from the top of the globe, trim the sharp ends of the remaining leaves with scissors, and cut the stalk so that the artichoke can stand upright on the plate.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil (there should be enough water to cover the artichokes). Additions to the water can include olive oil, garlic, coriander...I usually add sliced lemon and a bay leaf. Add the artichokes, lower heat and simmer covered until the leaves pull off easily -- about 40 minutes. Remove from water and drain upside down.

To remove the choke (which is not necessary, but a nice touch), carefully spread the leaves apart until you can see the cone of pale green leaves in the center. Pull these out. This will reveal the choke, which you can scrape out with a spoon. The rich solid mass beneath the choke is called the heart. Dressing can be placed on top of the heart, and leaves dipped until you are ready to eat the heart: cut into small pieces and eat with a fork. One of the great culinary treats!

To marinate for serving cold: pour vinaigrette over artichoke, making sure to saturate between the layers of leaves. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerator for several hours or up to two or three days. Serve with the same vinaigrette, adding a little mayonnaise and/or Dijon mustard if desired (the "country style" is good with this).

Dressings

Clarified butter: Melt butter over low heat. Let stand for a few minutes until solids settle to the bottom, then skim the butter on top.

Lemon butter (meuniere): Cook clarified butter slowly in a saucepan until it is light brown. Add lemon juice to taste.

Mayonnaise: You can beat olive oil and a little lemon juice into store-bought mayonnaise for a fresher flavor. Don't try to make fresh mayonnaise in a thunderstorm or humid weather -- it will not bind. With all ingredients at room temperature place into a blender: 1 egg, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/4 cup olive oil. Blend until thoroughly combined. Then, as the blender continues to run, remove the cover and slowly add 1/2 cup olive oil, then 3 tablespoons lemon juice. When this is thoroughly blended, slowly add 1/2 cup olive oil and blend until thick.

Garlic Mayonnaise (aioli): When mayonnaise is done (above) add crushed garlic cloves to taste and blend for about 10 seconds. If you are using store-bought mayonnaise, put the garlic through a press and add to mayonnaise then blend with a fork.

Hollandaise: Beat 4 egg yolks in a saucepan over low heat until you see the bottom of the pan with a stroke of your whisk. On the very lowest setting, add two sticks of butter cut into small chunks -- one chunk at a time, stirring after each addition. Then stir in a pinch of cayenne, salt to taste, a pinch of white pepper, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

Moousseline: Fold whipped cream into hollandaise -- 1 part whipped cream to 2 parts hollandaise.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Braised Short Ribs, Noodles Almondine, Spinach Salad with Mustard Dressing

I had guests from out of town recently, and we had a wonderful dinner on the terrace at the Mansion hotel. Their braised short ribs are served on a bed of mac 'n' cheese (Parmesan cheese, with chunks of ham) with a side of kale, and it was delicious. So I was inspired to try cooking short ribs myself -- this is my first attempt. Although this recipe is for a slow cooker, you can use a covered casserole in a very low oven instead. I tried to lighten it up a little -- the cheesy pasta and sauteed kale, while delicious, made for a pretty heavy meal. I think adding crushed toasted almonds to the noodles gives a little crunch which is nice, since the meat is so tender and buttery. And the spinach salad with mustard dressing provides a tart contrast to the richness of the meat and noodles. You can serve the beef on top of the noodles, or have the noodles on the side. Drizzle a little gravy on them both.

Braised Short Ribs

1 pound beef short ribs, cut up
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/6 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup flour
1 tablespoon oil
1 onion, sliced
1 cup beef broth
1/6 teaspoon whole allspice
1 bay leaf

Mix together salt, pepper, and flour. Coat the ribs and brown well in hot oil in a skillet.
Put ribs in slow cooker and add remaining ingredients. Cover and cook on Low for 8-10 hours, or High for 4-6 hours. Remove meat and discard bay leaf and allspice. Thicken gravy on the stove.

Noodles Almondine

1 cup noodles (I used fettuccini)
3 quarts boiling water
melted butter
1/2 cup blanched chopped almonds

Cook noodles according to package instructions. Drain, then place  back in the pot and moisten with melted butter. Sautee the chopped almonds briefly in butter and add to noodles.

Spinach Salad with Mustard Dressing

1/2 pound fresh spinach
1 teaspoon Dijon or German mustard
1 teaspoon grated onion
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon lemon juice

Trim spinach, wash, dry and chill.
Combine remaining ingredients and stir vigorously with a whisk. Add to spinach and toss.